6: The Case of Wine
In the area of food and cuisine, wine has been complex and highly idiosyncratic, a distinct and distinctive component of consumption that has been of great concern to western culture, hence the object of much consideration and sociological inquiry.
Wine has long been associated to religion in the west, revered or shunned by pagans long before its adoption by Catholicism. Even in the secular sense, wine has been a luxury and a vulgar indulgence associated with the basest and noblest, and the ability to appreciate its subtle qualities is regarded as a mark of distinction.
There are economic, cultural, and social dimensions of wine drinking and these factors have shaped the way its consumption is perceived and the way in which that perception have changed over time. But in particular, the author considers three factors to be significant in the difference between the way in which wine is consumed in public (in light of the way the consumer wishes to be regarded by others) or in private (in response to his own desires and tastes):
- Tension between the homogenization and diversification of wines
- The social and festive context in which wine is consumed
- The self-esteem of the consumer and his desired image
(EN: The original article is something of a dawdle around these topics and others - I've added subheads that were not in the original text to attempt to organize and make the content scannable but it is not very well structured in the original.)
Global Consumption
Changes in patterns of wine consumption within cultures have a major impact on the definition of tastes, and a corresponding effect on the industry of producers. This has also been influenced buy the globalization of industry and homogenization of product with a corresponding backlash in favor of local producers and diversified products.
The wine industry itself has experienced concentration as larger companies whose capacity to produce and ability to generate market demand have largely overshadowed smaller producers. As such the global and national markets tend to be dominated by a small number of large producers, eclipsing local and family estates. The emergence of large providers has led to a substantial increase in the quantity of wines produced as well as the general quality. There are national brands of wine that can be found in any supermarket, whose consistency can be counted upon.
(EN: There is much doubt that mass-produced wine has superlative quality, but the basic technical quality of wine is indeed increased, as it is presently rare to have to send back a bottle because the wine has spoiled or is entirely unpalatable.)
At the same time, the public has accepted the concept of terroir, and often judge a wine by its location of origin, though the ability to distinguish is limited to broad categories: wine from the Bordeaux region of France or the Sonoma Valley region of California - though there is less knowledge of more granular detail such as where within those broad regions, down to the location of an estate or even the field in which the grapes were grown.
(EN: This point is somewhat arguable, as there are instances in which grapes are shipped from their point of origin to a winery - such as the 1970s when French grapes were shipped to California - and the purported location of origin is the factory where the wine was produced rather than that in which the grapes were grown. My sense is that people largely regard "origin" as a matter of image rather than of fact.)
For large-scale producers, terroir is largely lost in favor of craftsmanship: producers seek consistency in their wines year to year, and as such the notion of there being a superior product of a "good year" is largely as moot as the notion of the product coming from a "good field" as the vintage is chemically measured and carefully controlled. To suggest that this year's product is up to standard means it is neither significantly better nor worse - merely consistent.
There is also the notion of the globalization of tastes - the expectation that a given brand of beverage such as cola tastes the same in any location means that cola has not local distinctiveness, and the same can be said for wines. This erases the distinction of a vintage, in some instances almost entirely.
Changing Culture of Consumption
The culture of wine is highly ritualized: various schools of taste have published guides that provide procedures for testing, akin to the guidance that might be given a critic or judge, that teaches the reader what he should consider to be "good." Hence, a wine's rating is in relation to the standard rather than an independent and subjective judgment.
In the market at large, these rigid definitions are largely ignored, as the consumer preference for wine appears to be driven by a growing acceptance of a wider range of taste preferences and a broader selection of products.
It's also noted that wine consumption has generally declined in the southern European countries in which it traditionally originated, a result of economic stagnation, excessive taxation, and changes in consumer lifestyles. Meanwhile, consumption has increased in locations where hard liquors (spirits) were previously the beverage of choice, such as the Nordic regions, such that producers who seek a market are catering to different tastes.
In general, wine consumption has surged among the middle classes and in suburban areas, as a result of marketing and supermarket distribution, such that much of the wine consumed today is reaching a the "new drinker" who appreciates the social esteem of wine drinking, but who lacks a cultural tradition.
Context of Consumption
In the context of the contemporary restaurant, wine is a beverage option that is recommended and selected as an accompaniment to food. While beer and spirits are consumed for their own sake, wine is a peripheral element. That is, it is a factor that enhances and elevates and experience, but the wine itself is of less significance than the meal it accompanies. A diner seeks food and wine, not wine and food.
The expansion of the restaurant wine list, from a few selection to hundreds in some instances, demonstrates not only a desire to appeal to a wide range of tastes, but an admission that wine itself is largely a matter of random choice - any of a number of wines might be chosen to accompany a given entree, and the fact that different wines may be paired with different courses indicates its secondary status. A meal at which wine is served is more elegant than one at which it is absent, but the particular wine matters little.
In restaurants, it is generally accepted that the wine should complement the food, such that the wine list plays an important but secondary role to the dining experience. In this regard, the chef exercises more influence than the sommelier: the food, not the wine, is the primary attraction that brings customers to a restaurant, though it's good and well if the restaurant happens to have a good wine list.
There is some value in having a "wine waiter" to help customers sort through the broad and diverse selections of a cumbersome wine list, or to assure them they have made the right choice. In haute cuisine pairings are often suggested in advance, such that the sommelier (or vendor) acts as a consultant in selecting wines to accompany the menu.
There are establishments, such as "wine bars" where wine remains at the center of the experience, but these are unusual, and generally regarded as a fad or niche market at best. Such consumption is not festive, but somber, and the experience of appreciating wine is much like the experience of visiting an art gallery or a museum.
Outside of that unusual context, wine is generally served as an accompaniment to food, which makes it unlike virtually any other alcoholic beverage. When beer and spirits are consumed, food is an afterthought, whereas wine is an integral part of the meal and, excepting dessert wines, is seldom consumed on its own.
In assembling a wine menu, it is generally the practice to match the character of the restaurant - the more upscale the restaurant, the more upscale its wine list, such that standard restaurants stock familiar market brands and only the upper-end restaurants offer superlative and rare selections. In that sense the wine selection is harmonious not only with the food, but with the social status of the customers.
There's a brief mention that wine tends to be two-dimensional - the sweetness and acidity being the main factors that appeal to the palate. Saltiness is mentioned, but is quite uncommon, and consumers in general have demonstrated a growing aversion to strong wines, which are consume only with game, as they overpower the delicate and subtle flavors of nouvelle cuisine.
It has been observed that across virtually every country of original, vintners have shifted to softer flavors and aromas, and those with a simple and straightforward character are more widely in demand than the more traditional and complex European wines. This is cited as a reason that French wines have been challenged by many simpler offerings from America and Australia, even in the European markets.
There has largely been a homogenization of the taste for wine, which further demonstrates the considerable power of a few large houses to effectively control consumer demand - if only by underpricing traditional estates and offering a largely homogeneous selection in its place. Even the more sophisticated among the common consumers expects a merlot to taste like a merlot, to conform to their expectations that derive from the amalgamation of their experience with the merlot of various producers, such that a producer can only express distinctiveness and creativity within a rigidly restricted range.
Random Observations
(EN: The article winds down with a succotash of observations.)
A few different classes of wine consumers are mentioned:
- Wine innovators - a niche market of individuals who are profitable to serve because they are willing to spend more in a restaurant for wine than the general consumer. However, the innovators do not have consistent tastes, such that they do not settle into a number of familiar favorites by ate constantly demanding something new and unusual.
- Classic connoisseurs - Well versed in the knowledge of wine, who are often settled into a routine of demanding certain selections that meat old-world standards
- Enthusiasts - Consumers who like the idea of wine, but lack knowledge and confidence and as such are fickle, often equating price to quality
- Occasional Consumer - who is generally easily pleased and has not pretense of ambition. Primarily the older female consumer, this category sticks to familiar and cheaper supermarket brands.
- The Chardonnay Girl - The younger female consumer who considers wine to be fashionable, but does not have a palate for it nor much discernment.
- Entertainers - who generally select wines for the pleasure of others rather than their own, and are subject to marketing and promotion
The author suggests that "we might have some doubts about the general applicability of these categories" but they represent a range of consumer types whose alleged preferences are consistent with patterns of consumer demand.
In the modern culinary scene, wine drinking is generally more casual than was historically the case. Consumers are less discerning than in the past, and their interest in wine is in the nature of a sensorial experience rather than a cultural expression of identity, except insofar as a vague concern with the prestige of consumption.
A passing mention that inebriation is considered socially unacceptable, particularly in the setting of a restaurant rather than a bar or social event, such that wine is consumed conservatively even by those who are generally enthusiastic about it. Conversely, the alleged health benefits of wine have preserved its respectability, in contrast to beer and spirits, which are regarded as unhealthy and self-indulgent.
Commercially, alcoholic beverages have long been a method by which restaurants can substantially increase the final bill without taking on significant expense - wine needs only be decanted, not prepared. As such it is a widespread practice to "push" the wine list at ever customer rather than making it available on request.
But ultimately, the customer is king, and most restaurants seek to be responsive rather than proactive, providing a selection that meets the desires and expectation of customers.